Tuesday, March 9

Homegrown in the Delta

My experience visiting Tyronza, AR in January



Five years ago, I would have never imagined the instantaneous joy that would arise from awaking at 7am on a Saturday in preparation for a journey to the Mid-South United States, otherwise known as the Delta. As I sat, beauty flickered past my eyes and a remedial imagination for our shared terrains took hold. Landscapes rushed by, diverse yet harboring similar consumers of the urbanized world. Soaked fields of soil followed us, highlighting the management the plagues them. Compacted rivets of water reflected prisms of light as sunbeams billowed forth from the clouds. The scenescape was majestically haunting. The numerous gulleys alluded to the encompassing planting season ahead, the past practices of the misinformed, and the preparation for a much-needed transition infrastructure. After three long hours, a sign shouting ‘WHITTON FARMS ’ vividly appeared from the grey and Jill Forrester waved us into her sanctuary.
Whitton farms is located near Tyronza, AR, while known as the ‘speed trap’ of highway 63, is more appropriately labeled an agri-centered town of 918 people. Keith Forrester grew up in this community on his family’s 600 acres, which unknown to him at the time, he continues to manage today. Their model is business as usual with a twist. They continually reiterated the point that they only invest in opportunities that generate income, however, they deeply understand that investment back into communities and charities are a part of tranquil livelihoods. They have been farming for five years and claim that they are not experts, but simple stewards experimenting with procedures and systems that work on their land. They have adopted methods based on early agrarian lifestyles and techniques, those that worked before synthetic fertilizers and herbicides were created. They are empowered by continual hands-on learning and expanding project lists. On the farm they always find something to dabble into: from hunting mushrooms with 56 kindergarten urbanites, to planting 1000 hardwood trees, and hosting 300+ people during their annual festivals, there is hardly anytime for idleness.
As we toured their property, we wadded further into the consciousness behind their mission to revitalize the Mid-south and create a self-sufficient Mecca on their property. Along with increasing access of local vegetables to senior citizens in the neighboring areas (Keith developed a route to senior homes in the area in conjunction with accepting food vouchers), and successfully expanding their CSA operation to a 350 person capacity, the Forrester’s are ready to explode the Memphis scene with their new bundle of joy, the Trolley Stop Market. So off we go to Memphis, home of the blues, Johnny Cash, and thanks to Jill and Keith, increased access to fresh, real food.
The Trolley Stop Market is a small "all local" grocery and deli located at 704 Madison in Downtown Memphis. Right off the trolley line and next door to the University of Tennessee Medical College, the primary goal for TSM is to give residents and consumers in the region an opportunity to have access to a wide variety of locally/sustainably grown and produced goods from the Mid-South. The Trolley Stop Market will serve breakfast and lunch with a menu featuring farmers and food artisans from across the Mid-South. The Forrester’s envision the shelves, crates, and bins housing local produce, grains, nuts, mushrooms, fruit and humanely raised beef, poultry, pork, freshwater fish, and seafood products. All year round no less! Jill adamantly exclaims that juice bar is in the works, yet they still have to complete the trimmings to their private meeting/party room and performance stage for the local musicians and beat poets of the area (maybe I will be up there one day ^-^). Furthermore, Trolley Stop Market will be home to CSA- Memphis, a multi-farm partnership/local food subscription service where participating farmers will be advertised each week with recipes and cooking classes available for participating CSA members. TSM will serve as the pick up point where CSA subscribers can simply choose the day of the week (Monday - Friday) they wish to collect their veggie or floral share.
The store is still in disarray but the imagination withheld in the white washed walls beckons out a new sense of wonder at what their future will hold. Suddenly out of nowhere, a brother from a different mother stopped by. Brandon Pugh, another Memphis farmer from across the Mississippi, drove by the store to check out the progress and unexpectedly found a mélange of breathing companions. Brandon established Delta Sol Farms in 2009, receiving advice from Whitton Farms as well as Dripping Springs Garden of Huntsville, AR during his opening year. His counterpart for the afternoon was Betsy Brackin , another Arkansas native and Memphis immigrant, dedicated to acrylic and watercolor depictions of the Delta landscape. I foresee her perception of the Mississippi River adorning the walls already.
Effortlessly the room brimmed with excitement and creativity as ideas and projects meshed into local visions of this shared space. A space unlike the empty storefronts of the block, one built upon the collective soul of those reaching out roots of sustained unity and interdependence. A campaign for new farmers, entrepreneurs, artists, students, lifestyle, and community; land remediation in Arkansas to the rejuvenation of urban communities. As Jill told me, Farmer’s Markets are recession proof and she feels at peace knowing that she can continue to watch the contagiousness of farming and the limitless imagination it can inspire in one’s life. Wow, what a day it has been.